atelierkakko A few weeks ago, on a beautiful autumn holiday, I took a leisurely walk from Ueno to the Calligraphy Museum.
Before setting off, I stopped by one of my favorite places—the International Library of Children’s Literature—for a quiet lunch. From there, I made my way toward Uguisudani.
Uguisudani is one of those places I always hesitate to visit because it’s known for having to pass through a hotel district. But if you can look past that image, you’ll find that it’s actually a charming area once loved by Meiji-era literary figures. There’s still a nostalgic air in its backstreets—a glimpse of old Tokyo that lingers quietly among the modern buildings.
The Calligraphy Museum is now holding a special exhibition on Edo-period picture books, ukiyo-e prints, and kibyōshi (yellow-covered illustrated books). It had been more than ten years since my last visit. I’d often thought of going again, but somehow the years slipped by.
The museum looked quite different from what I remembered—perhaps it’s been renovated or expanded? I honestly couldn’t recall anymore.＾＾；
Photography isn’t allowed inside, so by now my memories of the exhibits are already starting to fade. Still, the walk from Ueno to Uguisudani left such a pleasant impression that I found myself wanting to return.
I decided to buy the annual pass for just 1,000 yen—an excellent deal since it pays for itself after two visits. I used to love wandering around Ueno and the Yanesen neighborhoods, so I bought the pass partly as an excuse to start taking those nostalgic walks again.
Sometimes, retracing familiar paths reminds you how much both you—and the city—have quietly changed.
